Basil, chives, parsley, dill, angelica, borage, chamomile, chervil, cilantro, coriander, fennel, lemon balm, marjoram, sage, stevia, thyme, winter savory—all start easily from seed. Follow packet instructions. Basics are the same whether starting indoors for a head start or direct‑sowing.
Depends on cold tolerance and your last frost date. Hardy perennials: sow several weeks before last frost. Tender annuals: wait until after last frost for warm soil germination.
After frost danger passes, plant container‑grown herbs. Dig hole twice as wide, no deeper than pot. Slide out, loosen circling roots, set root ball, barely cover, water well.
Most herbs prefer well‑drained soil and develop best flavor on the dry side. Water needs vary by soil, weather, and herb type. Sandy soils need more frequent watering. Water deeply to moisten root zone 6″ down. Soaker hoses or drip irrigation save water and keep foliage dry.
High nitrogen = lush leaves but little flavor/fragrance. Avoid overfertilizing. Organic or controlled‑release fertilizers are safer. Follow soil test or label rates. Tip: Never use fresh manure—compost first to kill bacteria.
Most flavorful part is tender new growth. Pinch 2–3″ off stem tips regularly for bushy plants. Pinch off flowers for more leaves. Stop pinching woody herbs 8 weeks before first fall frost to harden off new growth.
Clean up dead stems of lemon balm, mint, artemisia, tansy if not done in fall. Woody/leggy perennials: cut back by ⅓ or to 4″ above ground before new growth for compact form.
Clump‑formers (chives) and runners (thyme) can be dug and divided in early spring to make new plants.
Woody herbs (rosemary) root from stem cuttings. Less woody (mint, oregano, thyme, basil) also root easily.
Stems that touch ground can root. Bend flexible stem down, nick base, apply rooting hormone, pin to soil, keep moist, wait months for roots.
Suppress weeds with 2–4″ organic mulch (wood chips, cocoa hulls, pine needles). Keep away from crown. Mulch conserves moisture, reduces watering.
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