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Peonies & Tree Peonies: Spectacular Blooms for Generations

Peonies & Tree Peonies: Spectacular Blooms for Generations

Peony flowers

The Herbaceous Peony is a standby of American gardeners—one of the most spectacular, reliably perennial flowers of late spring. But why rarely see its relative, the Tree Peony? This hardy, deer-resistant shrub, China's national favorite, flaunts exquisite blossoms up to 10 inches across in May/June; a mature specimen may bear 50 silken-petaled show-stoppers at once.

We aim to see both types get the garden space they deserve. Few plants offer such lasting return: Herbaceous Peonies bloom spring after spring for 50+ years with minimal care; Tree Peonies in Chinese temple gardens have bloomed for centuries.

What We Grow

Our selection hits high notes across floral types: elegant singles to ruffled doubles as luxuriant as crinoline petticoats. Old-time stalwarts like Herbaceous Peony 'Festiva Maxima' (favorite since 1851), contemporary prizewinners like 'Coral Charm', exotic imports like cherry-blossom-pink Japanese Tree Peony 'Hana Kisoi'.

What We Ship

  • Herbaceous Peonies: large roots with 3–5 eyes, fresh from fields, at proper fall planting time.
  • Tree Peonies: 3-year-old, grafted, 12–18 inch bareroot plants in fall and spring.

Herbaceous Peony Care Summary

  • Light/Watering: Full sun except South/warm West (afternoon shade appreciated, helps flowers last longer). 1 inch water/week throughout growing season.
  • Fertilizer/Soil/pH: Well-drained, organic-rich soil. If extremely acid, add lime at planting. Plant roots with eyes (pink/white buds at top) pointing up, covered with 1–2 inches soil in North, ≤1 inch in South. Critical: Deeper planting = no bloom. Don't mulch over crowns. Few/no flowers first spring—plants take years to settle and bloom heavily. Annual side-dressing of 1 inch compost/aged manure; no other fertilization needed. Double-flowered varieties must be staked—set supports as new growth emerges in early spring.
  • Pests/Diseases: Few insects. Fungal botrytis may be problem, especially wet seasons. Stems develop cankers/blacken at base, fall/wilt. Leaves show black/brown patches; buds brown, fail to open. Good culture/sanitation prevents/corrects. Needs drainage/air circulation—don't crowd. Remove affected foliage at first sign; deadhead religiously (remove all flower parts/petals). Cut all foliage just below soil after killing frost; remove debris—don't compost. If botrytis previous spring: thin sand layer around plants/crowns; spray new shoots with Bordeaux mix/lime sulfur. Spores overwinter at base; spring rains splash onto new shoots. Sand + debris removal prevents reinfection. Phytophthora blight may appear—hard to distinguish. If suspected, contact USDA Extension; usually fatal—dig up/destroy, replace soil before replanting. Ants on buds: attracted to petal substances, harmless, not needed for opening.
  • Cutting Flower Buds: Cut buds just before opening on 6-inch stems. Lightly wet inside large resealable bag; place buds inside. Close, refrigerate (not freeze). Later, take needed buds, float in shallow water. When bud ~⅓ open, lift, cut stem to 1½ inches, refloat.
  • Companions: Flower with Roses, Clematis; lovely with many perennials. Leave room for air circulation. White-flowered Peonies entrancing against evergreens. Spring bulbs (Crocus vernus, Scilla siberica) create pleasing color contrast at feet of emerging reddish stems.
  • Reflowering: Many varieties make side buds opening after terminal bloom—deadheading beneficial. After each flower finishes, cut stem under old bloom, leave foliage. For exhibition-sized flowers, remove side buds as they form, leave only terminal bud.
  • Dividing/Transplanting: Generally don't need dividing; some resent it. If must move, divide before replanting. Fall, after all foliage died back. Each division 3–5 eyes; usually 2 years to flower.
  • End-of-Season Care: Cut foliage back in fall, remove from premises to discourage overwintering pests. Mulch new plants with evergreen boughs/salt marsh hay after ground freezes.

Herbaceous Peony Calendar of Care

Early Spring: Water if spring rains don't. Side-dress with compost/aged manure. If botrytis previous season: thin (¼ inch) sand layer around plant; spray new shoots with Bordeaux mix/lime sulfur. Set stakes/supports.
Mid-Spring: Watch for botrytis; treat, remove diseased tissue immediately. Train through supports. Remove side buds for exhibition blooms.
Late Spring: Deadhead religiously; remove all fallen petals/blooms.
Summer: 1 inch water/week.
Fall: Cut stems to soil level, remove. Dig/divide if necessary. Mulch new plantings with evergreen boughs/salt marsh hay after ground freezes.

Tree Peony Care Summary

  • Settling In: Need time—may wait until third spring to flower. Often slow to break dormancy first spring—may look dead while neighbors spring to life; will awaken.
  • Light/Watering: Light shade from hot afternoon sun necessary (in China/Japan, small parasols block sun). Protect from drying winds summer/winter. Very drought-tolerant once established. Don't overwater; don't plant near auto irrigation. Wait until soil dry to 4 inches, then water deeply. Overwatering kills roots—common failure reason.
  • Fertilizer/Soil/pH: Well-drained, pH near neutral or slightly above. If acid, add lime at planting. Plant at depth indicated by green plastic ribbon on main stem; remove ribbon after setting. If ribbon missing: plant top of graft union (bulge on stem) 4–6 inches below soil to encourage scion roots. Spring top-dress with 1 inch compost/aged manure. Foliar feeding with fish emulsion appreciated during growing season.
  • Pests/Diseases: Rarely, boring insect in woody stem—kill larva with thin wire or cut affected area. Like Herbaceous, occasional fungal diseases (black spots, wilting shoots). Remove diseased foliage ASAP; clean up fallen parts in autumn. If fungal problems: spray fungicide early spring, repeat several weeks. Deadhead diligently; don't allow fallen petals on plant/ground.
  • Companions: Hellebores, Alchemilla, Leucojum, Epimedium, Siberian Irises lovely. If leggy, underplant with spring bulbs.
  • Pruning: NEVER prune to ground (unlike herbaceous). Prune damaged/broken stems after leaf-out. As plant ages/vigorous, open center to encourage flowering on taller stems, increase air circulation. Grafted onto Herbaceous roots—occasionally rootstock shoot arises at base; remove immediately.
  • Dividing/Transplanting: Don't need dividing; often impossible. Young plants movable when dormant; dig with max soil around roots.
  • End-of-Season Care: Remove all foliage after killing frost, including petioles; discard away from garden, not compost. New plants mulched; coldest areas wrapped with burlap/protective material for winter winds.

Tree Peony Calendar of Care

Early Spring: Top-dress with 1 inch compost/aged manure. Watch for fungal disease; treat. Remove rootstock shoots.
Mid-Spring: Some varieties need support for heavy flowers. If interior crowded, thin for air circulation.
Late Spring: Don't overwater. Deadhead spent blossoms diligently; remove old flowers/petals.
Summer: Water only when soil dry to 4 inches, then water deeply. Foliar feeding with fish emulsion appreciated.
Fall: Don't prune back—woody shrubs. Remove all foliage after frost, don't compost. Mulch new plants and cold-zone plants; if cold winter winds expected, wrap with burlap/protective material.

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