Pruning timing is as crucial as technique. Understanding plant metabolism helps: most plants grow new leaves/stems spring through midsummer, photosynthesizing intensely. Sugars move to woody parts and roots for winter storage, then fuel spring growth. Pruning harmonizes with this cycle—typically late dormancy or summer.
Note: Guidelines below suit four-season climates with winter chill. Warmer areas vary by plant's native climate. Consult nursery staff or Cooperative Extension for specifics.
Ideal for many deciduous trees/shrubs. Heavy frosts passed—less cold damage at cuts. Sugars still stored—minimal loss. Bare branches reveal structure for corrective cuts. Upcoming growth responds to pruning direction.
Flowering exception: Know if blooms form on old or new wood. Old wood bloomers (forsythia, peach/plum, flowering quince): prune after flowering. New wood bloomers (cinquefoil): safe to prune dormant.
Sugars moving to storage—pruning won't deplete next year's reserves. Easier to assess thinning needs with full foliage. Slower growth = less regrowth stimulation. In cold regions, stop 1 month before first frost to avoid frost damage at cuts.
Near-dormant in winter. Includes broadleaf (boxwood, camellia) and conifers (spruce, pine; few deciduous like larch).
Broadleaf evergreens: Late dormancy or summer. Flowering types: prune after bloom if on old wood; before spring growth if on new wood.
Conifers: Usually only pruned first 2–3 years for shape; then leave alone. Severe pruning often botches them. Exceptions: arborvitae, yew, hemlock tolerate shearing for hedges.
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