Why, When, and How to Plant a Tree: A Complete Guide

Trees are landscape powerhouses—providing beauty, shade, cleaner air, lower energy bills, wildlife habitat, and even higher property values. But planting a tree is a long-term commitment. Before heading to the nursery, understand the best timing and techniques for success.

Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting

Why Plant a Tree?

Beyond curb appeal, trees offer practical benefits:

• Energy savings: A large deciduous tree shades your home spring through fall, admitting winter sun—cutting heating and cooling costs up to 25% (U.S. Department of Energy).
• Air quality: Trees absorb pollutants and CO₂ while releasing oxygen.
• Wildlife: Provide food and shelter.
• Water conservation: Shade slows evaporation from understory plants.

Aesthetically, trees soften architecture, screen views, frame vistas, and add seasonal color, texture, and structure. They can boost property values up to 20% (Arbor Day Foundation).

Pearson Landscape Services: A large tree shades this seating area.

Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting

Choosing the Right Tree

Match the tree to your goals:

• Energy savings: Large deciduous tree for seasonal shade.
• Shade: Broad-canopied species; evergreen for year-round shade.
• Color: Colorful foliage (purple-leaf plum), flowers, or fall display.
• Fruit: Dual-purpose beauty and harvest.
• Tidiness: Near pools, avoid messy flowers/seedpods; consider evergreens.

Site Checklist

• Space: Determines mature size suitability.
• Obstacles: Avoid power lines, structures, underground utilities.
• Irrigation: Ensure accessible water source.

Simmonds & Associates, Inc.: Olive tree (Olea europaea) in a Mediterranean courtyard.

When to Buy and Plant

Plant during dormancy: fall after leaf drop, or late winter/early spring before bud swell. This gives roots a head start before top growth demands. Trees can be planted year-round with extra care (especially watering in summer).

Container types vary—wooden boxes, plastic pots, burlap, wire baskets, or bare-root. Only bare-root trees must be planted late fall through early spring.

Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting: Possumhaw (Ilex decidua) fall color.

Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting

Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting: Palo brea trees (Parkinsonia praecox) in wooden boxes.

Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting: Purple-leaf plums (Prunus cerasifera) in wire baskets.

Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting: Bare-root fruit trees in compost-filled boxes.

How to Plant a Tree: Step by Step

1. Dig the Right Hole

Research shows hole size significantly affects establishment speed. Dig a saucer-shaped hole three times wider than the root ball and the same depth (or slightly shallower). Most roots grow outward in the top foot of soil where oxygen is abundant. Deep planting starves roots of oxygen; trees also settle slightly after planting.

If using an auger, scrape the hole edges to break up "glazing" that impedes water and root penetration.

Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting

Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting: Too narrow and deep—slow growth results.

2. Position the Tree

Remove excess soil atop the root ball to expose the root flare (where major roots meet trunk). Trees often arrive with 2–3 inches of extra soil/mulch covering this critical zone.

• Wooden boxes: Place in hole, remove sides, leave bottom.
• Burlap/natural wrap: Place in hole, remove top two-thirds; bottom can stay.
• Synthetic wrap: Remove entirely.
• Plastic containers: Lay sideways, cut bottom off, place in hole, cut sides to remove.

Center the tree. The root flare must sit above grade. Inspect roots—if circling, shave the outer inch of soil/roots with a pruning saw to redirect growth outward.

Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting

Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting

3. Backfill with Native Soil

Use only the soil you excavated—no amendments. Studies show amended soil discourages roots from venturing outward, stunting growth and causing water retention and settling issues. Break up large clods, firm soil around roots, and build a berm to create a watering basin. Water thoroughly to settle soil and eliminate air pockets.

Peter D'Aprix Photography: Palo verde (Parkinsonia sp.) canopy.

4. Water and Mulch

New trees need consistent moisture for the first year—especially the first few weeks. Avoid overwatering (yellowing leaves). Consult your local extension or nursery for a region-specific schedule.

Apply 2–4 inches of mulch (shredded bark, compost, wood chips) over the planting area, keeping it 6 inches from the trunk to prevent disease. Mulch moderates soil temperature, suppresses weeds, retains moisture, and improves soil as it decomposes.

No fertilizer for the first year—it burns young roots and forces top growth before roots can support it.

California pepper trees (Schinus molle) form a tunnel.