Aromatic subshrubs for herb gardens and borders. Intensely perfumed blue-violet, mauve, pink, or white flowers prized for drying and potpourri. Silvery/gray-green foliage contrasts beautifully. Thrives in arid West; best as annuals/containers in humid South (except L. dentata and L. stoechas). Hardiness Zones 5–9; Spanish Lavender Zones 7–9.
Full sun; afternoon shade in hottest climates. Drought-resistant once established but flowers better with consistent moisture.
Lean soil preferred; no supplemental feeding needed. Occasional compost side-dressing okay. Perfect drainage is essential—plants die in wet winter soil. pH near or slightly above neutral; add lime if below 7.0. Gravel mulch keeps crowns dry.
Essential oils deter deer and insects. In humid climates, fungal issues possible; prevent with excellent drainage and air circulation.
Roses, hardy geraniums, catmints, Shasta daisies. Silvery varieties suit knot gardens; sheared, they make low hedges.
Woody subshrub—prune after new growth appears in spring; leave alone in winter. Shear back after flowering but don't cut into old wood. If unsightly, cut back by ⅓ every three years.
Cut spikes as flowers begin to open for strongest scent. Dry in bunches out of sun (4–5 days). Use fresh/dried stems in arrangements or strip flowers for sachets/potpourri.
Shear off old spikes after first bloom for possible second flush.
Young plants divide better. Move in early spring with plenty of root soil.
Wait for new growth before pruning. Remove deadwood, shape, divide/transplant. Side-dress with compost (away from crowns). Check/adjust pH to 6.5–7.5.
Mulch with gravel as soil warms.
Shear after flowering. Supplement water if very dry.
Watch for fungal issues in humidity; treat as needed.
Do not cut back before winter. In severe climates, cover lightly with evergreen boughs against drying winds.
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