Traditional terracotta pots in varying shapes and sizes planted with aquatics create stunning effects on paved terraces, patios, or pebble beds.

Position depends on desired effect: focus and contrast, or soft harmony. On hard reflective surfaces like glazed tiles, pot design matters; less so when partially hidden by other plantings.
Most terracotta pots suit this. Small water volume freezes quickly—bring indoors in winter in cold areas. Fine, non-frost-resistant pots work: drain water, leave plants in pots, store in frost-free cool place. Restart next spring.
For best summer effect, treat pots as miniature swamps. Fill two-thirds with aquatic compost, plant, top with fine gravel, add water. Plants rarely stand in more than 15 cm (6 in) of water. Mosquito larvae can survive in this depth without fish to eat them. Add a drop of cooking oil every couple of weeks—creates harmless surface film preventing larvae from breathing. Water surface appearance doesn't matter; pots become filled with plants.

Avoid vigorous tall plants that unbalance containers visually and literally. Use creepers like golden-leafed Lysimachia nummularia 'Aurea' for tumbling foliage. Other marginals: Butomus umbellatus, Iris laevigata varieties, Pontederia cordata, Juncus effusus 'Spiralis'—but only two or three upright types per container for harmony.
A delightful miniature water garden fits a window box. Consider position and planting carefully.
Weight of saturated compost and water is considerable—window box can't use conventional brackets. If by the window, needs a solid ledge.
Watertight container essential even without standing water—soil must be saturated. Many troughs and inserts available. Troughs without drainage holes are perfect; inserts with holes must be reliably blocked.
Bog garden plants are best. Plant directly into compost or side-by-side in small containers. Pot holders/covers work well—open sides, fit window boxes. Aquatic baskets are too large. Side-by-side pots isolate roots, easier to control, lift for division/replacement.
Select fibrous-rooted plants over creeping rhizome types—better behaved, minimal control. Mimulus and primulas excel. Mimulus x hybridus 'Calypso' and 'Queen's Prize' give summer-long colour; Sisyrinchium angustifolium varies stature. Primula vialii has startling lilac/red late spring flowers before mimulus blooms. Treat as annuals in window boxes—replace regularly for fresh, long-lasting display.
Any water-holding container can become a water feature. A good-looking metal watering can is a classic starting point.
Place on paved or gravel base as if standing naturally, but as a focal point surrounded by mixed planting—appears a natural garden element like planted wheelbarrows. Small gardens: one can; more space: two cans of different shapes/sizes complementing each other.
Can be a pump outlet—water fills can, sprays from spout. Needs powerful pump to lift water sufficiently for spray not dribble. Works better within a larger pool setting.

Wide plant range adapts to watering can conditions—equivalent to pool margin or bog garden depending on water added. Long, low cans suit frothing, tumbling plants like Veronica beccabunga and Lysimachia nummularia 'Aurea' spilling over. Upright cans take taller subjects—elegant Butomus umbellatus as focal point.
Use aquatic compost, fill halfway. Don't plant until foliage is tall enough to clear rim—emerging plants weaken if started in the can's gloom.
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