A Hike to Roche-Plate on Réunion Island

Don't let the French title fool you—this adventure is for everyone. "Une randonnée à Roche-Plate" translates simply to "A Hike to Roche-Plate," and today we're lacing up our boots for a trek into the heart of Réunion Island.

Réunion may be small, but its trail network is surprisingly extensive. The island's steep terrain and deep gullies make roads impossible in many areas, so paths became the lifelines for early settlers searching for farmland, hiding spots, or escaped slaves. Some 700 people still live in the remote Cirque de Mafate, accessible only by foot or helicopter. Today, these trails draw hikers from near and far, and the route we're taking is a local favorite.

Our journey begins at Le Nez de Boeuf (the Ox's Nose), perched at 2,100 meters (about 6,900 feet) on the road to the active Piton de la Fournaise volcano. A friendly driver drops us off—no buses run here, and we won't return the same way. With sturdy boots, water, snacks, a camera, and a first-aid kit, we set off on a 10 km loop that takes roughly four hours.

From the start, the scenery is spectacular. We cross a vast gully that feeds the Rivière des Remparts, winding toward Saint-Joseph, the island's southernmost town. At this altitude, vegetation is sparse but includes endemic gems like Acacia heterophylla (tamarin des hauts), which can grow impressively large, and the smaller Sophora denudata with its yellow blooms. Heathers such as Philippia montana, Stoebe passerinoides, and Eriothrix sp. signal the elevation.

The first hour is the toughest: a steep, narrow descent over slippery rocks demands full attention. As we drop, the flora shifts. Heather gives way to Aphloia theiformis with its peeling bark, while invasive species like Fuchsia × exoniensis, Solanum mauritianum, and thorny Lantana camara appear.

At the ravine bottom, the walking eases. A forest of Monimia sp. (mapou) towers above, and orchids bloom in March—Jumellea erecta, Benthamia latifolia, and the vivid Calanthe sylvatica carpet the path. After rainy seasons, waterfalls and natural pools offer refreshing breaks. Three more hours bring us to Roche-Plate, a former village at 740 meters. Once bustling, it now holds a few houses and two lodges serving delicious wood-fired meals and rhum arrangé. A 4WD track from Saint-Joseph exists but is often washed out by cyclones, forcing residents to walk 26 km round-trip.

After a hearty dinner, sleep comes easily. Morning finds us retracing the Rivière des Remparts back to civilization. This second leg is gentler but less dramatic. We pass through Roche-Plate, where ancient stone walls—once delineating gardens and animal pens—are now draped in roses, irises, and African lilies. Abandoned wooden homes dot the landscape.

The trail follows a 2 km stretch under towering Casuarina trees before reaching a wide fork where the Rivière des Remparts meets the Bras de Mahavel. Here, the dry riverbed spans 300 meters of sand, stones, and boulders—a geologist's dream. Mahavel has a dramatic history: in 1965, a massive cliff collapse dumped 15 million cubic meters of rock, creating a natural dam that threatened Saint-Joseph. The army eventually blasted a controlled breach to drain the lake safely.

Finally, we arrive at Saint-Joseph, where our driver awaits. This hike is just one of countless trails on Réunion. For the truly ambitious, the "Diagonale des Fous" crosses the entire island from Saint-Joseph to Saint-Denis—a feat for those who, as the name suggests, are a little crazy.