Question
Last February (o8)I transplanted a bald cyprus tree from the backyard to the front. In early April I transplanted a second one from the same spot. Both were tranplanted while still bare (dormant?). the first tree did wonderful. the second took a little longer to get its leaves but seemed to start well. then about August the 2nd tree, vey quickly turned brown and started loosing its leaves. I gave it some root stimulator and it seemed to come back for a month or so.  then just as quick the leaves turned brown and fell off again. The first tree maintained as normal all season. I do not know the age of the trees but they are approx. 8' tall with about 2" trunks. I live outside of Wichita, Ks. Is there anything I can do to help the second tree this spring or should I consider it lost?

Answer
Sounds like there was not enough root system saved to support the foliage. About all that can be done now is wait and see if the tree survives and leafs out this spring. If the small branches are limber and not stiff or brittle the tree is still alive but this summer with hot weather the roots will have a hard time supporting the foliage and at the least you will get dieback of some of the limbs. IF it leafs out and if you have not done so mulch around the tree with nor more than 3 inches deep of organic mulch not piled up on the trunk(pine straw is good). Water with 1 inch of water every third or fourth  day if it does not rain. Place a pan under the tree and turn the sprinkler on and when the pan has 1 inch of water in it stop.

BY the way here is the proper method of transplanting a tree.
Evergreens should be moved earlier in the fall than deciduous plants so they have time to form new roots. They need at least 6 weeks before the ground freezes. In the spring, Evergreens can be planted up to 4 weeks after deciduous trees have opened their leaves, providing that the newly planted trees receive adequate water.

When you want to dig up a tree or shrub for transplanting, retain as much of the root system as possible

All ages of evergreens, can be successfully moved only if a ball of soil is left around the roots. The exposed roots should be protected with moist burlap or newspaper or with polyethylene sheeting. Every effort should be made to reduce root exposure to wind and sun, keeping the ball as moist as possible. It's best to prepare the hole before digging up the tree you wish to move.

Size of the root ball and size of the hole:

For trees and shrubs the soil ball should be:

Width = 9-12 in. in diameter/every 1 in. of tree diameter
Depth = 6 in./every 1 in. of tree diameter

For example: A tree trunk 2 inches wide would need a soil ball of 18-24 inches wide and 12 inches deep.


Dig the new hole twice the size of the rootball and as deep and fill with good top soil or potting soil and mulch around the tree.