Match orchid to your conditions: light, temperature, humidity, watering habits, fertilizing.
High light (6–8 hrs unobstructed south sun): vandas, angraecums.
Medium-high (bright, not direct): phragmipediums, oncidiums, dendrobiums. East/west windows.
Medium-low (east/west no direct sun, or open north): phalaenopsis (moth orchids), paphiopedilums.
Low light (blocked north): jewel orchids.
Three groups: cool, warm, intermediate. Use high-low thermometer. Some adapt across ranges.
Tropical orchids need more humidity than typical homes. Group plants or use dry well (pebbles/lattice in tray with water below top).
Orchids potted in bark need soak-watering: submerge pot 10–15 min, drain. For clay pots, bowl of water works. For plastic, add water to empty bowl, then pot, soak 10–15 min. Sphagnum moss: water until runoff, but check depth—surface dry ≠ interior dry. Frequency depends on orchid type, pot, mix, temp, humidity, light. General: drought-tolerant (cattleyas, oncidiums, dendrobiums) weekly; others (miltonias, paphiopedilums, phragmipediums) every 4–5 days. Adjust to conditions. Water thoroughly, let dry before next.
Light feeders. Active growth: fertilize every other watering at ½ strength. Flush with plain water monthly to prevent salt buildup.
Most loved, easiest. Flowers last months. Medium bark, warm temps, low-medium light. Colors: white, pink, yellow, orange, deep rose, lavender. Bloom once yearly; may rebloom if stalk cut above 2nd/3rd node after fade. Repot 1–2 years after bloom, when aerial root tips green.
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