Finished pond: ~38 in. long, 36 in. wide, 20 in. high.
1. Download the free plan (requires Adobe Acrobat).
2. Make the base frame. Cut 2x2s, assemble with 3-in. deck screws. Drill countersunk pilot holes to prevent splitting.
3. Make the base. Crosscut 2x8s to five 36-in. pieces, place edge to edge. Mark last board for 36-in. overall width, cut to size. Place face down, center frame, drive 2½-in. screws through frame into base. Turn over.
4. Position base assembly where you want the pond. Level in both directions; use tapered shims under frame to adjust.
5. Make pond sides. Cut eight 2x8 side pieces to lengths per diagram. Assemble into two boxes with 3½-in. screws.
6. Put sides in place. Position first box on base. Miter 1x2 banding around perimeter, center on joint line, fasten with 2-in. screws into box and base. Stack second box on top.
7. Add two more banding sets. One straddling the joint, one flush with top of sides.
8. Make notch for pump cord. Cut ½x½-in. notch at one corner.
9. Fit liner. Cut liner to manageable size (66-in. square gives 1½-in. allowance). Place in box, roughly center (see Illustration 1).
10. Secure liner. Pleat surplus equally on each side or to one side (Illustration 2). Staple near top of each side. Trim flush with top.
11. Add pump. Position inside box, route cord through notch (Illustration 3).
12. Finish with top banding. Cut 2x4 cap strips per diagram, screw in place (Illustration 4).
13. Double-check location and level before adding water. Full sun is best.
14. Fill with water from garden hose. Once filled, it weighs ~600 lbs—cannot move without draining.
15. Add plants and/or fish. Wait 24 hours after filling before adding fish.
16. Plug in the pump.
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