How to Grow Daylilies: The Ultimate Low-Maintenance Perennial

A variety called Hyperion.

If there's a “sure bet” perennial, it's the daylily. They thrive from Minnesota to Florida (zones 3–9), tolerate diverse soils, resist diseases and pests, and bloom faithfully for years with virtually no attention. The botanical name Hemerocallis means “beauty for a day”—most daylily flowers open in the morning and die by nightfall. But each flower stem (scape) typically has at least a dozen buds, so the plant stays in bloom for weeks.

Unlike most perennials, daylilies suit many garden uses. Shorter, compact varieties work well in perennial borders for mid-summer color. In groups of 3 or 5, they're ideal for landscape plantings with ornamental grasses and small shrubs. Daylilies are perfect for mass plantings along fences or walkways, forming dense, weed-proof displays.

How to Select a Daylily

Species include the ubiquitous roadside lily (Hemerocallis fulva), night-blooming H. citrina, and fragrant lemon lily (H. flava). Most garden daylilies are hybrid cultivars—thousands exist, grouped by bloom time (early, mid, late), flower color (white to yellow, pink, purple), scape height (6″–3 ft), and flower form (trumpet, double, ruffled, recurved).

Choose early, mid, and late bloomers for summer-long flowers. Mix heights, colors, and forms for daily new blooms. Professionals use additional categories:

• Diploid: 22 chromosomes. More numerous but smaller flowers than tetraploids, graceful old-fashioned form. Many doubles are diploids.
• Tetraploid: 44 chromosomes. Larger, more intensely colored flowers, stronger scapes.
• Miniature: 12–25″ tall, smaller flowers. Excellent for small spaces and perennial borders.
• Dormant: Foliage dies back in fall regardless of weather. Best in cold climates. Most cultivars are dormant.
• Evergreen/Semi-Evergreen: Foliage stays green all winter in mild areas. Best for warm climates.
• Reblooming: Bloom multiple times in summer. Main flush followed by intermittent blooms often until frost. Deadheading encourages rebloom.

Planting and Care

Daylilies flower best in full sun (6 hrs/day) on moist, well-drained soil. In hot climates, dark cultivars need afternoon shade to retain color. In the right spot, they bloom for years with little care—no fertilizer needed beyond yearly compost.

Mail-order daylilies: plant within days of receipt. South: plant spring or fall in cool temps. North: spring planting for establishment before winter. But daylilies are so tough, northern gardeners can plant spring through fall.

Amend soil with compost before planting. Space 12–18″ apart, crown ~1″ below soil surface. Water well, mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and suppress weeds. Young transplants: keep weed-free and well-watered first year.

Few pests. However, a new daylily rust disease is spreading. Control: keep area open and airy, remove diseased foliage, water when rainfall insufficient.

Dividing Daylilies

One routine chore: dividing. Clumps become crowded after 4–5 years, flowering diminishes. Late summer best for division. North: early spring alternate if fall turns cold fast.

Dig clumps, place on tarp. Use sharp knife or spade to separate healthy young fans with strong roots. Cut back foliage, replant immediately in compost-amended soil or pot for holding. Many extra plants per clump to share. Discard small or diseased plants.

Winter Care

North: mulch newly planted daylilies in late fall—critical for young plants that may heave out first winter. Remove dead foliage in spring unless diseased (then remove in fall).