A pond liner is a flexible waterproof membrane covering excavation sides and floor. Several types exist, each with different properties, suitability, and budgets.

Low cost but little else recommends them. Bright blue, short life, difficult to install (must shape before water → massive wrinkles). UV degradation cracks unprotected parts (waterline to ground). Only useful as buried membrane in naturally managed ponds: excavation larger than needed, lined with polythene, covered completely with soil (prevents UV degradation, wrinkles irrelevant). Ordinary builders' polythene (damp-proof membrane) works. Tougher option: stack/truck covers — exceptionally tough, ring eyelets for securing, ideal if fully soil-covered.
Traditional liners, similar look to polythene but more resilient. Elasticity allows moulding with water; higher burst resistance, often enhanced by Terylene web (rough feel). Available in blue, sea green, pebble patterns. Guaranteed ≥10 years. Good buy but largely superseded by LDPE.
Economical alternative to PVC. Invariably black, enormous flexibility → neater finish, snug contours, minimal wrinkles if folded boldly at corners.
Long regarded as best: versatility with durability. Expensive. Can be welded into almost any size/configuration, repairable. Flexibility like LDPE, minimal creases. Life >25 years (unless punctured). Non-shiny finish → rapidly colonized by micro-flora, blends quickly. Best where exposure inevitable (formal features, reflecting pools, turbulent fountains). Practical for fitted liners (welded to shape with accurate corners/curves).
Most ponds work with most liners, but circumstances may favour one. Usually cost-driven — buy best affordable. Polythene fine where fully buried. Rubber better for exposure, formal features, fitted liners.
Never buy liner first — finish excavation, then calculate. Formula for any shape: Length + (2 × max depth) = liner length. Width + (2 × max depth) = liner width. Provides sufficient overlap with minimal waste.
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