Creating a Low-Maintenance Garden from Two Neglected Backyards

This garden design sparked my serious interest in low-maintenance gardening. I was amazed by how effortlessly the garden cared for itself—rather than me tending to it—and overwhelmed by the year-round fragrance, color, and variety it delivered in exchange for minimal work. These qualities fueled my obsession with gardens that are thoughtfully planned, built, and planted with the right flowers and shrubs so they enhance your life instead of ruling it.

Most garden lovers struggle to sit outside without feeling compelled to tackle some small task. But for those who aren't addicted to gardening, a "little work" garden exists purely for enjoyment.

My garden was established in 1969 and has deteriorated remarkably little over the decades, despite only occasional plant replacements and months of neglect at a time.

Beyond a good organic feed in March, pruning, watering, and seasonal tub planting in May, it's been left year after year to struggle or flourish on its own.

I admit some neglect stems from my involvement with an untamed six-acre garden outside London, which means this garden receives less than six hours of my attention annually. Yet it has proven unquestionably to be a successful "trouble-free" garden—though that's no surprise given how well it was planned from the start.

The Original Garden

Years ago, I had two dingy backyards behind the two Victorian artisan's cottages where I live. The yards sat on three different levels, with poor soil, straggly unsuitable plants, and shade from massive overhanging lime trees. These trees not only depleted the soil but also produced aphid excretion in summer that coated everything beneath in a sticky black residue. There was no seating area, and slugs and snails were everywhere. At one time, an outdoor privy and a bicycle shed occupied the space, their remains crumbling in one corner.

I bought the second cottage in the early sixties from my neighbors, a pensioner couple whose family had lived on the street since the cottages were built over a hundred years earlier. In those days, the backyards held vegetables, chickens, an outside toilet, and a clothesline before developers converted the cottages.

The Obstacles

The designer faced mature overhanging lime trees and varying garden levels—though the cottages sat level, the backyards had discrepancies of 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm). There were patches of cracked concrete, low brick walls that had collapsed, a dilapidated shed, permanent puddles on compacted poor soil, mismatched trellis, and builders' debris. The area, 30 feet (9 m) deep and 60 feet (18 m) wide, was an unsightly mess.

Priorities

I wanted a garden demanding very little time, as I was often away working or working round the clock at the studio. I wanted a place to sit. I didn't want to swap plants seasonally or do extensive digging. My dream was to spend less than an hour a week on it and still have a beautiful garden.

Only during the establishing years was I obliged to devote time to weeding. Ultimately, the garden demanded less than an hour a month yet remained interesting and pleasant year-round.

One of my first requests, besides ease of care, was roses. I love roses, but in such an enclosed area with little air circulation, they tend to struggle rather than flourish.

Time has shown that climbing roses, which can reach above the wall into air and light, do extremely well provided they're fed with Top Rose or bonemeal annually. Several climbing roses were added to the original planting plan. In early stages, they need training and pruning—two tasks not on my "little work" list. But for the minimal effort they've cost me, twenty years later I'm still enjoying their beauty and am delighted they were planted.

The Design

This simple, elegant design brilliantly unifies the two levels of the walled garden and completely banishes the desolate look of neglected backyards.

From the terrace at the back of the house, looking over the two-tier garden, the sweeping raised crescent moon in the corner cleverly exploits the level change, transforming the built-up area into a pleasant sitting arbour. It catches the summer sun until at least seven or eight o'clock—perfect for a quiet read or late tea.

Wooden trellis on two sides of the arbour provides strong support for Jasminum officinale and Clematis montana rubens, plus welcome shade to cool this sun trap. On the opposite side, densely planted lush foliage and a statue complement the sun-filled sitting area.

Walking across the grass to the house from the arbour, you descend two brick steps to the second grass area. The interesting grass outline is emphasized by bricks laid on edge, creating a flat "mowing stone" to facilitate cutting.

The small shed for garden implements, lawn mower, and dustbins on the right of the terrace is camouflaged by tubs in front. Utilities like a barbecue and clothesline weren't required, so no space needed allocating for them.

Practicalities

One of our first moves before moving or leveling the backyard soil was asking the local council to reduce the canopy of the overhanging lime trees growing in the grounds behind the terrace. In my case, this was essential to let in both rain and light.

Trees sometimes cause problems, but the principles are reasonably well-defined in law. If a tree overhangs a neighboring property, the neighbor can cut branches or roots back to the boundary. The cut parts still belong to the tree's owner, as do any fruits. In the interests of neighborly relations, it's advisable to inform the tree's owner of your intention, but this isn't a legal duty.

Trees in the street and on adjoining council property are the council's responsibility. But a tree in your own garden may have a preservation order, so make enquiries before starting work. Ensure you use an experienced tree surgeon.

The Importance of a Paved Area

We have so few fine days in England that when they arrive, it's nice to be outside—but not on grass soaking wet from yesterday's rain. A paved terrace is essential. Chairs and tables need a hard surface; no one (not even the lawn) wants heels and chair legs sinking into grass.

Development

Like every garden, this one has evolved. Jardinieres have been added, frost-killed plants replaced, a sculpture removed, and a conservatory built, greatly reducing the original terrace size.

The years have seen climbing frames, portable sandpits, children's parties and picnics on the grass, not to mention tents, caged rabbits, and wandering tortoises.

At one point, the small lawn was used for football and swingball so extensively it had to be paved with York stone to avoid muddy shoes traipsing through the house. I acquired my York stone curiously: years ago, when the council was ripping up York stone paving slabs outside the theatre stage door where I worked, workmen told me the smaller pieces would be discarded and I could take them. Each night I loaded my car boot—ruining the suspension—and took home small sections that now cover the lower grass area and the brick "mowing stone," which was destroyed by youngsters playing football.

None of these changes has been fatal. They've left their mark, which is as it should be—gardens are there to be used as an extension of the house.

My Garden Plant List

The plants below have flourished despite neglect over the past 20 years in my pink, white, and blue garden, without needing replacement.

T = Trouble-free

Climbers

Lonicera japonica 'Halliana' Height 25-30ft (7.5-9 m). Sweet-smelling cream flowers from June to October. Semi-evergreen, mid-green leaves. Good camouflage climber; grows anywhere.

T Hydrangea petiolaris Self-clinging hardy deciduous climber. In the wild it can reach 60ft (18 m) but is easily pruned. Attractive plant for clothing walls or fences; grows on north- and east-facing walls without complaint. Flat heads of cream-white flowers in June. Dark green leaves, flaky brown stems. Prefers damp wall and shade; needs a few ties as it grows. If the wall is too dry, it may fall away.

T Jasminum nudiflorum (Winter jasmine) Hardy deciduous climber needing training and support. Grows to 10ft (3m). Yellow flowers make a dazzling winter display on naked green branches. Tiny oval three-fingered dark green leaves. Prune after flowering to keep tidy. Tolerates sun or shade.

T Jasminum officinale Hardy deciduous vigorous climber. Grows to 30ft (9m). Mid-green leaves. Sweet-smelling clusters of small white star-like flowers from June to October. Best in sunny position for more flowers.

Climbing Rose 'Aloha' Height 7-10ft (2.25-3 m). Rich pink, very full flowers with strong perfume from June onwards. Shiny green leaf. (Also good as a large shrub).

Shrubs

T Mahonia japonica Evergreen shrub, happy in sun or shade. Long dark green holly-like leaves. Height 6-8ft (2-2.5m). Spread 6-8ft (2-2.5 m). Long pendulous clusters of lemon yellow flowers with lily of the valley scent. Wonderfully easy and dramatic. Don't be afraid to cut back after flowering to keep bushy—but I haven't cut mine more than twice in 20 years!

T Hebe 'Great Orme' Evergreen shrub. Grows to 4ft (1.2m). Spread 3-4ft (90cm-1.2m). Dark green fleshy leaves, pink flowers on spikes from May to July. Tolerates all conditions, even maritime, but not extreme cold. Hebe pinguifolia has white flowers on spikes in May.

T Daphne mezereum (Mezereon) Deciduous shrub. Height 5ft (1.5m), spread 2-4 ft (60cm-1.2m). Sweet-smelling pink/purple flowers from February to March, followed by poisonous scarlet fruit. Light green leaves with grey/green underside.

T Cotoneaster 'Autumn Fire' Evergreen shrub. Grows to 15 ft (4.5 m) if supported, or 3-4ft (90 cm-1.2 m) as ground cover. Dark green leaves, tiny white flowers in May, red fruits (loved by birds) in autumn. Tolerates shade or sun.

T Choisya ternata (Mexican orange blossom) Wonderful evergreen bushy shrub with aromatic shiny dark green leaves. Height 6-8ft (2-2.5m) and spread 6-8ft (2-2.5m), but has grown to almost 18ft (5.5m) in this garden. Sweet-smelling white flowers in May and sporadically through summer and autumn. Tolerates both shade and sun—a most obliging shrub. Doesn't like soggy soil.

T Viburnum burkwoodii Evergreen shrub. Height up to 8ft (2.5 m). Spread 8-12ft (2.5 to 3.5 m). Sweet-smelling clove-scented white flower clusters (pink in bud) from January to May. Excellent hardworking shrub. Dark green leaves with brown/grey felt underside. Tolerates shade or sun. In this garden, trained as a climber.

T Hydrangea 'Blue Bird' Deciduous shrub. Height up to 2ft 6in (15cm). Spread 2ft 6in (75 cm). Delightful blue lace-cap flowers in July. Prefers shade but tolerates some sun. Mid-green leaves. All hydrangeas make excellent dried flowers and need plenty of moisture.

T Hydrangea 'Lanarth White' Deciduous shrub. Height about 3ft (1m). Nice compact habit. White lace-cap flowers from July to October. Pale green leaves. Unlike many hydrangeas, this variety flowers best in sun.

T Weigela florida 'Variegata' Deciduous shrub. Height 4-5ft (1.2-1.5m). Spread 4-5ft (1.2-1.5m). Mid-green leaves with broad cream/white margins. Attractive and obliging shrub with pale pink foxglove-like flowers in May and June.

Herbaceous

Bergenia cordifolia (Elephants' Ears) Excellent evergreen ground cover. Pink and red flowers in spring. Large flat dark green leaves. Handsome ground cover, except once twelve years ago when attacked by snails.

T Hedera helix 'Glacier' (Ivy) Ground cover or for a shady wall. Silver-grey leafed ivy. Grows to 5-10ft (1.5-3m).

T Sedum spectabile Hardy herbaceous plant. Height 12-18 in (30-45cm). Spread 15 in (37.5 cm). Pink flower heads 3-5in (7.5-12.5cm) across from September to October. Fleshy silver/green leaves. Brings welcome autumn color.

T Salvia officinalis purpurea (Sage) Evergreen small shrub. Purple-leaved sage, obliging ground cover. Height 18in (45cm), spread 18 in (45cm). Blue-purple flowers in June and July. Prefers sun.

T Hosta sieboldiana Herbaceous perennial. Excellent low-growing late spring and summer ground cover. Broad silver/blue leaves, pale lilac flowers in July to August. Can grow 2ft by 2ft (60 by 60cm). Both shade and sun-loving.

The deciduous shrubs are underplanted with snowdrops, miniature cyclamen, and spring-flowering bulbs.