The exact choice of planter is very much a question of personal taste but the correct
scale and shape are of the utmost importance for creating a pleasing effect.
Size: A planter with a sizeable volume of growing medium will dry out Iess rapidly than a smaller planter; it will even be capable of sustaining larger, more vigorous plants. As a general rule, planters with a diameter smaller than 23 cm should not be used for hot dry situations. A number of vases and urns that are extremely attractively shaped and proportioned have a soil capacity and planting area which are relatively small. Always check that they will give sufficient depth of soil, or compost to accommodate plant root systems both in the middle and at the edge of the planter. Ten cm is only just sufficient to ensure adequate root area for small edging plants.
It is best also to consider carefully before choosing planters with small mouths, as despite their overall volume these offer only a very confined area for planting. To some extent this difficulty can be overcome by grouping several planters together to produce a bolder display.
Stability Always try to find planters with large or heavy bases to provide stability, particularly where there's to, be regular traffic of people.
At planting most plants used will be quite small. Always allow sufficient space to accommodate the plants when they are fully grown.
Weight: Some containers, especially stone ones can be very heavy to lift and move although this is a bonus for stability. Such planters aren't easily brought home in the car. Some planters are made in sections but even their separate parts can be heavy and awkward to transport.
Drainage: For drainage there should be one large hole or several smaller holes in the base of your planter.
Style: Contemporary designs will more often than not be out of place in old surroundings, however the converse isn't necessarily the case.
Materials: Planters made in natural materials will usually look best, but will be costlier to acquire, especially if they're hand crafted or sculptured. Ease of maintenance: When siting a planter consider ease of access to enable maintenance. For example, it must be possible to reach window boxes for watering particularly if the windows do not open at the bottom. If you propose to site a hanging basket over an doorway, keep in mind the nuisance of dripping water. Situations exposed to unrelieved sun light often leads to rapid drying out and wind could cause damage to plants.
Grouping containers: The grouping of planters requires a certain sensitivity. Size and number should be proportionate, to the situation. Many small planters scattered about an area do not of necessity create a bold impact and can look fussy. A group of small planters can also be more difficult to maintain. One large container placed to dominate an area may be much more eye catching and effective, and definitely offers the advantage of easier maintenance.
Tall Planters: Unless skilfully planted, a single tall, narrow planter, similar to a chimney pot or drainpipe can look insignificant. These kinds of planters tend to appear more imposing when grouped. Chimney pots of various heights will always produce a better effect. lf it is only possible to obtain pots of comparable heights, extra height may be achieved for variation by standing some of your pots on bricks or by setting the front ones lower by digging a hole in the ground where it's possible. The pots will also be more pleasing if grouped close together. The same principle can be extended to other kinds of planters as a general rule a group of pots should present a range of different heights.
Designs: If several planters are to be used the group normally looks better if they are similar in design, or made from the same material. Though, totally different kinds of planters usually are acceptable, positioned apart and separated by more permanent plantings. There'll of course be no problem if dissimilar planters are planted having a covering of trailing plants.
Stone, clay & lead containers.
Stone
Sculptural stone containers with ornamentation sculpted by hand are extremely effective but may be costly as well as being very heavy to move. Some are ornately decorated, but often the simpler shapes and styles suit small to medium-sized gardens best. There is little point in buying a stone planter with an elaborate relief design if the carving will be obscured by the plant.
Clay and terracotta
Clay and terracotta pots may be plain or ornamented. An unglazed terracotta pot kept outdoors all year must be frost-proofed. Heavily glazed ones are frost-resistant and much more water-retentive. Some smaller pots have deep saucers to act as short-term reservoirs.
Lead
lt continues to be possible to purchase planters in traditional styles produced from lead. These are heavy and expensive but very long lasting. They'll look well in most settings.
Concrete
Very large containers produced from concrete with various finishes of exposed aggregate are suitable for forecourts of large buildings. If they are to be planted for seasonal effect, it is sensible to use separate, smaller planters that fit inside them: these can be made up beforehand, so the planting may be removed and replenished easily. Concrete and reconstituted stone are used for smaller urns and troughs, and when well designed can look like sculpted stone.
Plastic and glass fibre
Gardeners should not discount the simulated stone planters made out of glass fibre or plastic well planted these can be very effective. They're light weight and simple to transport when empty; also they are much less expensive. Some can be partially filled up with sand for stability. This is best best done in situ.
Glass fibre is extremely durable and can simulate a number of natural materials very realistically. That is also true of plastic, but plastic can deteriorate rather badly, faded by sunlight and battered by the weather, so check the quality very carefully.
Containers in natural wood look good in most situations and can be obtained in many different styles. Prior to purchase, check the planters for soundness of manufacture. Pay particular attention to the standard of the wood, checking for signs of future splintering or warping and that the metal bands are firmly fixed.
Barrels and tubs
Properly coopered barrels have become more difficult to find than they once were, and increasingly expensive. However, garden centres sell wooden planters that serve well enough and can provide years of service.
The circular type of barrel suits most situations: square or triangular planters, fit well into corners. Half-barrels are very popular and of pleasing proportions. A few have integral handles to make lifting and moving simple. Others have ornate tops, largely obscured once planted. Barrels are sometimes cut lengthwise and mounted on wooden feet to form a kind of cradle providing a good planting area that is ideal for bold, relatively permanent displays.
Painting and varnishing
The wood of the coopered planter should be sound in its natural state, but the external surface of other planters is best either varnished, or treated with a clear wood preservative, or painted. There is much to be said for keeping the wood its natural colour. lf you paint it, repainting at regular intervals will likely be necessary. Paint the metal bands also. The colour is really a matter of choice but should of course, tone with its surroundings.
Storing
lf unplanted planters are are going to be stored for any length of time. It's worth keeping them wet: when the individual slats dry out they contract and fall apart. Keep empty planters outside in a cool, shady position and regularly soak or submerge them in water.
Charring and Preservative
Although a planter could be lined with polythene sheeting before planting, charring is the best way to preserve the internal surface of a wooden planter. Some planters are purchased ready charred, otherwise using a blowtorch is the easiest way. Alternatively, give a good application of a good preservative but avoid creosote that is injurious to plants.