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Phal problems


Question
I bought my first orchid (phalaenopsis) about a week ago and I have been fussing over it ever since.  I have read lots, but am still confused.  One thing is clear, I bought it with dark green, wilted leaves that are slightly wrinkly and I know this is not good, but I don't know what to do about it.  There are three large leaves (all as described) but there is also one small leaf that is yellowish.  It has six beautiful blooms on it and three tiny buds - they all look great.  The roots are greenish and whitish in parts and seem firm to the touch.  I think the plant was both not getting enough light and also not getting enough water. On day one, I left it alone thinking it is better to be too dry than to take a risk.  On day two, I watered it a little bit with distilled water. On day three, I sprayed it with orchid fertilizer (worm poop).  I left it alone for two days and then decided it might need more water because I never soaked it.  I poured a lot of distilled water on the plant and then dried the leaves and the inside of the pot.  It was in a small plastic pot when I bought it, but I gently pulled it out and set it in a clay orchid pot which is too big and thus there is air all around the plant/growing medium.  I did not mess with the growing medium at all -- I did not even disturb it -- I could set it back in the plastic pot easily.  It is currently growing in sphagnum moss and styrofoam peanuts.  I went into a restaurant tonight that had 5 gorgeous orchids of various types.  They were all still in their original plastic containers and growing medium, but they all were gloriously healthy with thick, hard, light green leaves.  

Answer
Hello Elizabeth,

From your description of the phalaenopsis orchids condition, it was not in the best of condition when you bought it.  Hopefully, it is not too late to save it.  

That the leaves were already wilty and shriveled indicates to me one of two things, that it was overwatered or severely underwatered.  Which it is will take a little investigation.  Here is what you should do to find out which it is.  

Overwatering: Since you already unpotted it and put it into a larger clay orchid pot, it will be easy to check the roots for rot.  Remove as much of the sphagnum moss as you can from the roots, if the roots within the moss are soft and mushy that would indicate overwatering over an extended time.  Since rotten mushy roots are no longer alive, remove them by cutting off the mushy root parts, leaving what live and firm plump parts there may be.  Treat the cut root ends with powdered cinnamon and allow them to air heal for about 4 hours then repot it using fresh new medium size orchid bark.  If there are not many live roots left, use a smaller pot size than it came in as too large a pot for the amount of roots may lead to more root rot.  Water it thoroughly then place it in a warm shady place for 2 to 3 weeks to allow it to recover.  Lightly water it once a week and mist or spray it in the morning to maintain humidity.  After 3 weeks, place it where it will be in bright but indirect sunlight, temperatures between 60F to 85F, humidity above 50% and exposed to some light air movement.  Water when the potting mix becomes barely moist and feed it lightly with a balance type orchid fertilizer.  

Underwatering: Look at the roots within the moss and if they are shriveled and dry looking, you will know it was severely underwatered before you bought it.  Unfortunately, most or all dry roots will not recover once they have become too dry.  The treatment is basically the same as for overwatering.  

Lastly, the damaged leaves probably will not plump back up but leave them on the phal.  Although they may not look very nice, they can still support the orchids recovery.  Eventually they will start to turn yellow and brown before falling off naturally.  In the meantime, a new leaf should emerge from the top and should grow to be as large or larger than the current leaves.  

Hope this helps save our phalaenopsis orchid.  

Jim Kawasaki
San Jose, Ca.  

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